Its not difficult to tell the difference between a synthetic or natural bristle paint brush once you figure out what youre looking for. But until you do know what youre looking for it can be very frustrating. One reason is because I have found that the packaging for the paint brush typically wont use the words synthetic or natural to describe the type of bristles on the brush. Instead they say things like good for all paints and stains or for oil-based paints and stains.
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This is helpful if you know all about the type of product youre using. But if youre new to it all and someone tells you to get a synthetic bristle brush not helpful.
Anyone else been frustrated by this?? Raise your hand if youve gone to the hardware store to find a synthetic or natural bristle brush and ended up having to ask someone or google how to tell the difference between a synthetic bristle brush and a natural bristle brush. Well, I have.
So before I tell you about my favorite synthetic bristle brushes, here are a few tips to hopefully help you know which is which.
A natural bristle paint brush is going to have more coarse bristles. The bristles may appear to be a little thicker and they may resemble a straw broom in color, kind of a camel color.
Below are some of the most-common painting questions. We hope you will find this resource to be useful during your next painting project.
Cleaning oil-base paints, varnishes, lacquers and shellacs from your brush: Closely follow the manufacturers instructions to select the proper cleaning solvent (mineral spirits or paint thinner for paint and varnish, denatured alcohol for shellac, etc.) Pour the solvent into a container and dip the brush into the solvent. Work thinner through the brush bristles, dipping up and down in container several times. Spin the brush into a waste area to remove excess thinner and then repeat process with clean container and clean thinner.
Cleaning water-base (latex) paints from your brush: Warm water and mild soap suds are the best cleaning solution for water-base paints. Any mild bar soap of dishwashing detergent will work. Prepare soapy water and pour into a clean container. Dip the brush into the mixture, working the soap through the brush bristles. Follow with a clear water rinse. Repeat the process if necessary. Always use a clean container with clean soapy water and follow with a clear water rinse. For stubborn water-base paints, try mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, followed by warm soapy water and a clean water rinse.
Start out with a quality roller cover such as Bestt Liebco® Tru-Pro® or Master roller covers. This will enable you to clean it several times.
Cleaning oil-base paints, varnishes, lacquers and shellacs from your roller cover: Closely follow manufacturers instructions in selecting the proper cleaning solvent (mineral spirits or paint thinner for paint and varnish, denatured alcohol for shellac, etc.) Pour the solvent into a container and dip the roller cover into the solvent. Repeat this process using a clean container and fresh solvent until the roller cover is clean.
Cleaning water-base paints from your roller covers: Wash with soap and warm water and rinse until clean. Repeat the process if necessary. Always use a clean container with clean soapy water and follow with a clear water rinse. If needed, use a putty knife to help scrap off the paint. For stubborn water-base paints, try mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, followed by warm soapy water and a clean water rinse.
Latex paint that is dried on your brush will soften. You will need to use hot water, soap and patience. Prepare soapy water and pour into a clean container. Dip the brush into the mixture, working the soap through the brush bristles. Now place the brush back into the hot/warm water for about 20 minutes. Remove the brush, and using a stiff nylon bristle brush gently rub the filament following the flow of the bristles. Follow with a clear water rinse. Repeat the process if necessary.
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For stubborn water-base paints, try mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, followed by warm soapy water and a clean water rinse. It may take 2 or 3 times of repeating the above steps but the paint will eventually break and wash away. Be sure to dry the brush completely.
The brush is not ruined. You need to follow this procedure to bring the brush back to its original finish. First, be sure the brush is completely clean and totally dry. The water from the latex paint and from washing the brush will have leeched the natural oils out of the bristles of the brush.
To bring the brush back to its original softness, use raw linseed oil which can be found at many paint dealers. Put a dime-size drop of the linseed oil in the palm of your hand and work it into the bristles. You may need to repeat the application of linseed oil several times to completely repair the brush. Once soft, comb out the brush, place it in a plastic bag or the packaging it came in to store it.
Do not use a wire brush on a paint brush. While it will help remove the dried paint from the tips of the bristle, it can damage the filament / bristle. Instead, use a brush comb to clean the paint from the inside of the brush, which will increase the life of the brush. To get the outside of the brush clean try using a stiff nylon bristle brush. This will be less destructive on the ends of the filaments.
Natural bristle brushes are made from natural fibers like our hair. And, like our hair, natural bristles absorb water resulting in a soft and floppy brush that wont paint very well. Also, rough surfaces will quickly wear out a natural bristle brush. So, if youre using a water-based or latex coating or painting a large, rough surface, choose a synthetic brush (like a nylon or nylon/poly brush) instead. Synthetic filaments retain their stiffness and body with all types of finishes.
Professional painters often prefer a 100% nylon brush for painting interiors with latex (water-based) enamels. However, a 100% nylon brush reacts to heat and humidity by getting softer and harder to use.
Polyester adds stiffness retention to the brush and helps limit the reaction to heat and humidity, so nylon/poly bends are ideal for exteriors as well as interiors. Polyester or nylon/poly blend brushes work with all types of paints and stains and are considered all purpose brushes.
Both the 100% nylon and nylon/poly blends allow paint to flow smoothly, thus, the choice comes down to the environment. If your climate has high heat and humidity at the time you will be painting, use the poly/nylon blend. If not, select the brush you prefer.
You should have no problem getting paint to hold over stain. Be sure that the surfaces to paint are clean, that the stain is totally dry and that there are no loose chips on the surface. Prime with a pigmented stain sealer to prevent flashes or hotspots coming through the paint. Then, choose a Bestt Liebco® brush for high-quality results and a smooth finish.
Once the temperature drops below about 55 degrees Fahrenheit, paint becomes a little harder to work with. It is also easier to get sags in paint because of the slower dry times. Temperatures for latex and oil paints differ, as do stains and paints. Please read the label on the can of finish and follow the manufacturers recommendations.
Cutting in is a process of applying paint at all corners where ceilings meet walls or where walls intersect. Also, paint is applied next to all molding, trim, and baseboards. Cutting in is easy without painters tape if you use a high-quality paint brush and follow these simple steps below. However, if you are not comfortable cutting in with a brush, you can always use special painters tape to ensure you get a straight line.
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