Collet questions | Canadian Hobby Metal Workers & Machinists

Here is a collection of my special Mill Tools:



I didn't include the 3/4" ratchet Wrench I use on the drawbar, and my vise.

The big nut slips over my spindle and the pins fit the quill cap allows me to loosen or tighten the cap on my quill. Making it from a big nut allows me to easily remove the cap which can be extremely difficult to remove otherwise.

The small collar to the left of that is a drawbar spacer to use with the odd R8 tool that is longer than standard.

Below that is tool that has had the threads removed for a short distance in the center of the threaded portion. It is used with the belt tensioner system replacing the factory pins only when needed for belt removal.

Below that is a tool I purchased that has a hex end to fit a battery power driver drill, and a castle end that fits the mating castle half on the shaft that cranks the knee up or down. I only use it when the knee needs to be moved large distances. When you need it, it's amazing.

To the right of that is a Bearing Puller I made that allowed me to easily pull the bull gear bearing from a blind recess when nothing else would work.

Above that is the factory R8 alignment pin. My custom one is in the mill and I don't have another right now. I'll prolly make 3 or 4 the next time I need one.

To the right of the alignment pin is a special Allen key that has been shortened so it can be used between the inner and outer quill shaft to remove the cap retainer.

At the very bottom is a collar I made to fit the drawbar and hold it centered in the drawbar sleeve. There is a lot more to that collar than meets the eye. The small diameter precisely fits the drawbar sleeve so the drawbar is always centered and cannot rattle around - a very common mill complaint. The fat section is threaded so it will thread over the rolled threads at the bottom of the drawbar to get it on the shank. Rolled threads are bigger than the parent shaft. It is installed by threading it over the threaded section of the drawbar after which it will slide to the top with the female threads keeping it centered on the shaft and the OD keeping it centered in the quill. No more drawbar rattle.

I stand by my compliments of @PeterT 's post.Here is a collection of my special Mill Tools:I didn't include the 3/4" ratchet Wrench I use on the drawbar, and my vise.The big nut slips over my spindle and the pins fit the quill cap allows me to loosen or tighten the cap on my quill. Making it from a big nut allows me to easily remove the cap which can be extremely difficult to remove otherwise.The small collar to the left of that is a drawbar spacer to use with the odd R8 tool that is longer than standard.Below that is tool that has had the threads removed for a short distance in the center of the threaded portion. It is used with the belt tensioner system replacing the factory pins only when needed for belt removal.Below that is a tool I purchased that has a hex end to fit a battery power driver drill, and a castle end that fits the mating castle half on the shaft that cranks the knee up or down. I only use it when the knee needs to be moved large distances. When you need it, it's amazing.To the right of that is a Bearing Puller I made that allowed me to easily pull the bull gear bearing from a blind recess when nothing else would work.Above that is the factory R8 alignment pin. My custom one is in the mill and I don't have another right now. I'll prolly make 3 or 4 the next time I need one.To the right of the alignment pin is a special Allen key that has been shortened so it can be used between the inner and outer quill shaft to remove the cap retainer.At the very bottom is a collar I made to fit the drawbar and hold it centered in the drawbar sleeve. There is a lot more to that collar than meets the eye. The small diameter precisely fits the drawbar sleeve so the drawbar is always centered and cannot rattle around - a very common mill complaint. The fat section is threaded so it will thread over the rolled threads at the bottom of the drawbar to get it on the shank. Rolled threads are bigger than the parent shaft. It is installed by threading it over the threaded section of the drawbar after which it will slide to the top with the female threads keeping it centered on the shaft and the OD keeping it centered in the quill. No more drawbar rattle.

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By marcrunner in forum Techniques for Cutting, Drilling, Machining

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