grinding and deburring pipes and profiles cost-effectively

By using special radius grinders (centrifugal machines) which grind pipes and profiles perfectly in seconds, metalworkers and fitters can work very precisely yet cost-effectively. Contact cylinders with diameters for all common pipe dimensions used in conjunction with grinding belts (grit 36) ensure maximum accuracy. Because the mechanical loads of the grinding belts are very high, very heavy belts with polyester backs should be used. A low speed level with a maximum of rpm considerably reduces the build-up of heat on the workpiece. Zirconium grinding belts with cooling materials also reduce heat levels and extend the service life. For volume grinding, corresponding length stops ensure a precise end length for the pipes or posts and that the radii are exactly aligned to each other. Burrs form on the ends following radius grinding. The easiest way to effectively remove them is using a stationary deburring machine with stainless steel brushes and a wire thickness of maximum 0.35 millimetres.

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FEIN supplies stationary belt grinders with extension modules for various applications. The modular GRIT grinding range cuts costs and saves storage space, as the customer only has to buy one basic machine and the modules required for radius, circular or surface grinding, for example.

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Date

Edited

07-26- 09:-26- 09:10

MILLSCALE,
A very broad subject.
Every project and weld bead or pass is unique like the proverbial snowflake.
1) When is grinding necessary?  When flaws or excess metal are present that will affect the required quality of the completed weld.
2) Is it really necessary to grind?    Not always!  My philosophy is to limit grinding to it's absolute minimum.
3) Any tips on how to minimize the grinding? 
  a) On the internal beads, keep the profile as flat or slightly concave as is possible. Try to work the sides of the bevel so there aren't any wagon tracks. Convexity is your enemy down in the groove.
  b) When ever there is a problem, STOP! ASAP! Fix (ie. grind) adjust and carry on.
  c) I try to start a new pass before Top/Bottom Dead Center with minimal build up until the center and then maintain the depth of deposition as evenly as possible. This way there is less of a "lump" at the start.
  d) At the Top/Bottom, gradually taper off the thickness of the bead as you move past the center point.
The "c" and "d" above is what has worked for me to keep my layers an even thickness around the pipe and minimize grinding at the stops and starts. As your skill advances, there will be less and less grinding and you will develop your own tricks through minor, almost imperceptible manipulation techniques that are all your own. Eventually, you will learn what does and does not Require the grinder.
Hope this makes sense and helps.

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