It's just a work table, right? Sure, but there are several factors to consider when buying stainless steel tables.
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How much use will the table get?
The usage will help to determine the gauge of steel to purchase. Standard options are 14, 16 and 18 gauge with 14 being the thickest and 18 being the thinnest. Of course, 14 gauge is the most expensive as well. If you're planning to dump heavy items on it consistently, 14 gauge is probably the way to go. If you'll only be doing light prep, 18 gauge might make more sense.
Will you need an undershelf?
Tables come standard with either an undershelf or rear cross braces for support. If you plan to store boxes or other materials underneath the table, you would obviously choose an undershelf. If you plan to put other equipment or trash, rear cross braces might be best. Think about your particular application and what makes sense in that space.
How long do you want the table to last?
This is where the type of stainless steel comes into play and there are two main options. 304 stainless steel is a higher quality and contains approximately 18% chromium and 0.08% carbon. 430 stainless steel is lower quality, generally more difficult to bend and has approximately 17% chromium and 0.12% carbon. The amount of chromium affects how corrosion-resistant the steel is, which is why 304 is more durable since it has a higher percentage. A quick and easy way to test what stainless steel you have is to use a magnet. 304 stainless is not magnetic while a magnet will stick to 430 stainless.
Do you need any modifications or upgrades?
Stainless steel tables are extremely versatile in their potential configurations. Vendors like Advance Tabco offer standard modifications include a backsplash, drop-in sink, single or double overshelves, casters, stainless steel legs or undershelf versus galvanized and drawers. All are available and all have cost-implications of course but can also save significant labor costs during prep and service.
The best, and most expensive, stainless steel table you can get is 14 gauge, type 304 stainless steel since it is the thickest and most resistant to corrosion. On the flip side, 18 gauge, type 430 stainless steel, is the least expensive but most susceptible to dents and corrosion. Next time you're in the market for new table, think about what will work best for your operation and know the possibilities are endless.
The gauge of your stainless steel basically describes the thickness and, thus, durability of the steel itself; the lower the gauge, the thicker the steel!
Lighter and less expensive than 16 or 14 gauge, these are often known as &#;budget tables&#; and work best as work stations with light duty. This gauge is not ideal for chopping, pounding, or heavy weighted items as it dents and bends easily.
Best for sandwich prep, salad prep, sorting items, general workspace.
As a traditional choice cutting the middle between affordability and durability, 16 gauge is generally fit for most needs.
Best for standard duties.
For those who want a table that can stand up to heavy use. Often the table of choice for butchers, 14 gauge is the thicker of the options and thus is most durable.
Best for meat prep, tenderizing, institutional.
The different types of stainless steel are determined by the crystalline structure of the steel itself. The differences in structure can determine the steel&#;s durability and resistance to corrosion.
Stainless steel tables come with two main options for underspace usage: undershelves or open base. Undershelves may be of a lighter gauge or different stainless type. This may be OK as the undershelf doesn&#;t get nearly the same amount of use, but be sure to check.
**Note! that some lower priced tables come with galvanized legs and/or undershelves. Galvanized coated steel products WILL likely rust in the long term and we don&#;t recommend it. Know what you&#;re purchasing. Some imported brands may claim to be one gauge or type of stainless but turn out to be something else.
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It&#;s important to note that tables with shelving can come with either stainless steel shelves or galvanized shelves. If you&#;re opting for the latter option, then the legs are usually also galvanized with plastic bullet feet, making it the more affordable (but less durable) option.
Tables can be positioned in the middle of your kitchen or against a wall. Backsplashes are ideal for against-the-wall placement, as it protects the wall from accumulating food particles and makes cleanup easier. Backsplashes come in typically smaller sizes of 1 ½&#; for lighter duty tables while heavier tables can range upwards of 10&#; for backsplash height.
Square edges can jut out and be a nuisance, but they&#;re ideal when placed against other flat objects.
Best for placing tables against one another.
Rounded edges make for easier cleaning while square sides make for convenient placement against other items.
Best for single tables.
Utilizes a drip-containing ridge around the perimeter of the table (with rounded edges at the corners).
Best for items to be prepared that have juice or liquid (like meats).
In addition to the basics, you may have the option to choose from a variety of other accessories and additions:
Tables are typically shipped knocked down and require assembly. You can opt to have the table fully welded and assembled at the factory for a reasonable cost. This will not only save you the hassle of assembling the item(s) but will be much more sturdy.
MAKE SURE IT WILL FIT THROUGH THE DOOR.
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