How to cut threads on a lathe

13 Jan.,2025

 

How to cut threads on a lathe

I have searched and searched and cannot find a good place to see how threads are cut on the lathe. I attempted a 3/4"-10 this morning and kept cross threading it. I then tried a 1/2"-20 and that did not work either...the nut threads on but very loosley. I think I am setting up the levers correctly, starting the cross slide in the same location, feeding the compound .003 to .005 each time, and the set up is very rigid.

The compound was angled at about 30-degrees as suggested. I am running the lathe on its lowest speed.

I have watched a few videos on threading but none seemed to help. It always looks easier when someone else does it.:wall: Assuming your leadscrew is 8 tpi, cutting 10 tpi means you need to feed the carriage back to the start using the leadscrew. You can't use the thread dial unless the tpi is a multiple of 4. For the 20 tpi, you can use the thread dial. Since it's a multiple of 4 but not 8, use either all even numbers or all odd numbers.

The compound should be at 29.5 degrees, not "about 30 degrees".

1/2-20 threads have a minor diameter of ., so the depth to cut is (.5-.)/2 = .. At 29.5 the infeed is .. You can take a bigger DOC at the beginning of the thread and reduce it as you go in. Rather than relying totally on the compound dial, I would use a nut to try the fit.

You need to have the cutting bit aligned perpendicular to the work or the threads will be malformed. Use a 60 degree "center gauge" for this. You can order one from Enco for $6. The center gauge also is useful in grinding a HSS tool to verify the 60 degree angle at the tip. To save the hassle you can get carbide inserts for threading that are precise. The tip needs to be at the midpoint of the work.

The other way to get a good final thread is to single point it most of the way and use a die to finish. The single point assures that the dies will thread on straight. This is what I like to do on small diameters especially.
Hi Chris,

South Bend's book How to Run a Lathe has a pretty good part on thread cutting. Martin Cleeve's book is good also, but the South Bend book would be my first stop. Atlas published a great book on lathe work, but I don't recall the name of the book.

What lathe are you using and how are you picking up the thread for each pass, threading dial?

Chuck

Hi Chuck,

I'm using a Supermax engine lathe. I am bringing the tool out, moving the carriage back to the beginning, increasing the compound by .002 to .005. I am also choosing the same number on the spinning dial. I have heard of the South Bend book before...I'll try to pick up a copy.

Thanks Chuck. I looked for info on Supermax lathes, and find lots of models, all of commerical size. So I hate to assume that model you have, and what leadscrew you have.

So the old saying, the better the question, the better the answer.

The supermax series seem to have both metric and imperial threading capabilities, You need to know if you have an imperial leadscrew or a metric lead screw. so grab a caliper and measure 3 threads on the leadscrew, is it .375" or .480. If .375 its an 8tpi screw if .480 its metric 4mm pitch screw. The threading dial, are the numbers 1-4, with tic between, or a circle of numbers 1.125, 2. .7 etc. that will also tell
if metric or imperial. And last check all the levers and knobs that the threading is set for imperial turns not metric. It may also be possible that a gear set in the quadrant has to be changed to effect metric/imperial threading. For that a nmanual would help.

Lets hear how you do.

If you have a metric leadscrew, then threading needs to have the half nuts engaged all the time to cut imperial threads
Hi Chuck,

I'm using a Supermax engine lathe. I am bringing the tool out, moving the carriage back to the beginning, increasing the compound by .002 to .005. I am also choosing the same number on the spinning dial. I have heard of the South Bend book before...I'll try to pick up a copy.

Thanks Chuck.

Hi Chris,

That Supermax should do a fine job. My 9X42 mill is a Supermax.

To me it sounds like you have the right approach. You are cutting even number threads and my SB Lathe book says to throw the half nuts in at any line on the dial for even number threads. This is for an 8 tpi lead screw, but I'd think your dial is matched to your lead screw if it happens to be a different pitch.

Please let us know what you find that is causing the problem.

Regards,

Chuck
Assuming your leadscrew is 8 tpi, cutting 10 tpi means you need to feed the carriage back to the start using the leadscrew. You can't use the thread dial unless the tpi is a multiple of 4. For the 20 tpi, you can use the thread dial. Since it's a multiple of 4 but not 8, use either all even numbers or all odd numbers.

The compound should be at 29.5 degrees, not "about 30 degrees".

1/2-20 threads have a minor diameter of ., so the depth to cut is (.5-.)/2 = .. At 29.5 the infeed is .. You can take a bigger DOC at the beginning of the thread and reduce it as you go in. Rather than relying totally on the compound dial, I would use a nut to try the fit.

You need to have the cutting bit aligned perpendicular to the work or the threads will be malformed. Use a 60 degree "center gauge" for this. You can order one from Enco for $6. The center gauge also is useful in grinding a HSS tool to verify the 60 degree angle at the tip. To save the hassle you can get carbide inserts for threading that are precise. The tip needs to be at the midpoint of the work.

The other way to get a good final thread is to single point it most of the way and use a die to finish. The single point assures that the dies will thread on straight. This is what I like to do on small diameters especially.

Thank you...this makes a little more sense now. The lathe is 8tpi. So I have to stop the lathe, reverse the lead screw direction, and have the tool go backwards through the same threads I just cut? Retract the tool with the crossfeed while reversing. The crossfeed dial should be set to 0 before starting the thread. Then after reversing so can put it back at the correct position via the dial.

The technique I use for the crossfeed dial is as follow:

1) At the start, position the crossfeed with the tool fairly close to the stock and the handle at approx. 11 o'clock. Zero and lock the dial.

2) Using the compound, advance the tool so that it just touched the stock. Zero the compound dial.

3) While cutting the thread, I keep my left hand on the crossfeed handle and right hand on the feed lever (assuming I'm using the thread dial). At the end of the thread a quick downward movement of my left hand disengages the tool from the stock while I also disengage the feed. Once you get used to this you can run the lathe fairly fast.

4) After moving the carriage back to the start, then it's easy to move the crossfeed back up to its 0 position. Advance the compound, and go again.

if cutting 10 tpi or metric or another similar thread you can't disengage the leadscrew, but the crossfeed technique is still good. Just stop the spindle afterwards and reverse.

Threading steel I always use back gear for torque at low speed. For brass and aluminum I don't bother. On the first pass I make a "scratch cut" that I can measure with a thread gauge. This is to ensure that the lathe's gears are set for the proper TPI. If not, then that can be fixed without messing up the stock. Chris,
I haven't seen it mentioned and it may be obvious but I was getting inconsistent threading because of one thing I had failed to do. When I was at the end of the thread, I'd stop the horizontal feed, back out the toolbit and wind the carriage to the starting point. But I failed to account for the backlash in the drive. When you wind the carriage back to start the next cut be sure to account for any backlash in the drive by going past the starting point, then advancing the carriage to the start of the cut.

Phil Well thanks to all I finally cut my first successful 1/2"-13 on the lathe! Why did it work this time you ask? I have no idea.

I chose the "1" on the dial and stuck with that because of the 8tpi lead screw right? Maybe that was it?

I also turned the diameter down between the max and min of the major diameter...I did not do that for the 1/2"-20 or 3/4"-10 threads.

Now I just need to practice...thanks again for all of your valuble input!

Threading on Lathe

THREADING ON THE LATHE

You will get efficient and thoughtful service from BH.

Introduction

This document presents some of the more common techniques for threading on the manual engine lathe.

Tap Handle

Using a tap handle is the most common method of tapping on the lathe. The workpiece is clamped in the lathe chuck, a spring loaded center (for smaller taps) or a dead center (for larger taps) is clamped in the tailstock, and the tap is held and rotated using a tap handle, as we do with the assigned parts in lab.

Figure 1a: Examples of using standard tap wrenches and spring loaded tap guide (left) or dead center (right) to tap holes on the lathe.

Figure 1b: Example of using an adjustable wrench and a live center to tap holes on the lathe.

Figure 1c: Examples of various tap handles.

Die Handle

Using a die handle is a common method of external thread cutting on the lathe. The workpiece is clamped in the lathe chuck, and the threading die is held and rotated using a die handle.

In general, round-shaped dies are for cutting threads onto a workpiece and hex-shaped dies are for chasing (cleaning up / repairing) existing threads.

Before using a threading die it&#;s important to make sure the major diameter of the shaft to be threaded matches the range listed in the Machinery Handbook. For example, a ½-20 UNF 2A thread must have a major diameter between 0. and 0.&#;. The smaller the major diameter, the easier the die will cut. In general, undersize the shaft diameter by 2% of the major thread diameter.

When using a threading die on the lathe it&#;s important to start the thread die collinear to the axis of the part, so use the body of the drill chuck for alignment and guidance. It&#;s also important to cut a generous chamfer on the end of the part to help the threading die start cutting.

Figure 2a: Examples of various threading die handles.

Figure 2b: Using the drill chuck body to align the threading die axis with the workpiece axis when starting the thread.

Rigid Ta pping

Rigid tapping is the second most common method of thread cutting on the lathe. With this technique the tap or die is clamped in the tailstock using a variety of methods and threaded into or onto the workpiece under spindle power. Smaller taps up to 3/8&#; can be clamped in a keyed Jacob&#;s style chuck (NEVER a keyless chuck!). Larger taps should be clamped using a split sleeve or heavy duty tap driver, as shown in figure 3b.

Figure 3a: Rigid tapping on manual lathe. Click the image on the right for a video showing the process.

Figure 3b: Example of split sleeve tap driver for lathe tailstock (left) and heavy duty tap driver for lathe tailstock (right).

Figure 3c: Rigid die cutting on manual lathe.

Die cutting video

Single Point Threading

Single point threading involves mounting a threading tool with the proper thread profile to the toolpost and cutting the thread using multiple synchronized passes.

In general there are two types of cutting tool geometries which can be used: partial and full form profiles. Partial profile cutting geometries only cut the minor (or root) diameter of the thread, whereas full profile cutting geometries cut both the minor and major diameters of the thread profile to size. The advantage of partial profile cutting geometries is that one tool can cut a variety of thread pitches, whereas a full profile cutting geometry is only good for one particular thread pitch. The advantage of full profile cutting geometries is that the entire thread is finished in one operation, saving significant thread finishing and deburring time.

Figure 4a: Partial vs full form profile threading geometries.

The following videos explain the process in good detail. Fast forward through the parts which are not interesting to you J.

Figure 4b: Good single point threading video (left; threading starts at 18:08 time stamp) and shorter clip of thread cutting (right).

Figure 4c: Examples of properly designed thread reliefs.

The process for single point turning threads in the design lab is as follows:

1.Clamp the part in the lathe using a live center if necessary.

2.Turn the OD to the target major diameter and include a chamfer on the end at least 0.020&#; smaller than the minor diameter of the thread profile to be cut.

3.If permissible, cut a thread relief using a grooving tool (as shown in Figure 10 and the two video thumbnail images above). The thread relief should be slightly less than the minor thread diameter.

4.Adjust the gearbox levers on the front of the headstock to cut the proper thread pitch.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit threading in lathe machine.

5.Adjust the threading tool so it is aligned parallel to the X-axis.

6.Touch off on the part and zero the X-axis.

7.Cut a light (0.001 - 0.002&#;) scratch pass across the surface of the part to be checked with a thread gage for accuracy.

8.If the pitch of the scratch pass measures correctly, begin cutting the thread to depth; start with deeper depths of cut (.010&#; in aluminum, 0.005&#; in steel) and make progressively shallower cuts as the thread gets deeper and the threading tool begins to leave a worse finish)

9.As you approach final thread size, use a fine file to carefully debur the rough edges of the major diameter (unless using a full profile insert, which deburrs the major diameters automatically, as discussed above). The major diameter should end up a few thousandths of an inch under the nominal size, according to the tolerances listed in the Machinery Handbook (e.g. 0.-0.&#; for a ½-20 UNF 2A thread). You will know when you are close to the final size by keeping track of your X-infeed value, which will end up smaller than the equivalent internal thread&#;s minimum minor diameter by the noted allowance (e.g. 0.446&#; &#; 0.&#; = 0.&#; for the same ½-20 UNF 2A thread).

10.The procedure for making an actual cut is:

a.Check the direction of the threading direction by engaging the half-nut with the tool a safe distance from the part; for this example, we will thread toward the chuck

b.Adjust the spindle speed to a low setting (100-300 rpm) depending on how brave you are J

c.Position the tool in a safe starting location to begin cutting the thread

d.Advance the tool toward the part the distance (depth of cut) you wish to cut

e.Engage the half-nut for threading (it&#;s safest to leave this engaged for the duration of the threading session)

f.Turn the spindle ON in the FWD direction and allow the tool to make a cut

g.Turn the spindle OFF before the tool reaches a shoulder (if not exists); you can use the foot brake to stop it quickly if needed; if you stop too early, simply bump the power switch to continue the cut or rotate the chuck by hand

h.Retract the tool a safe distance from the part in the X-direction

i.Turn the spindle ON in the REV direction to allow the tool to return to a safe starting location

j.Repeat steps d. thru i. until the desired minor or pitch diameter is reached.

Figure 4d: Insert comprehensive single point threading video here?

Thread Measurement

Threads can be measured at least three different ways: by checking with a mating nut or thread gage, by using a dedicated thread micrometer, or by using the three wire method.

Mating Nut or Thread Gage

Checking with a mating quality nut or thread gage is the easiest method to determine when the thread is cut deep enough. Nuts are much cheaper than calibrated thread gages, but work fine for most prototyping applications.

Figure 5a: Checking thread size using an existing, quality nut. It&#;s convenient to keep a complete set of quality nuts on rings for thread measurement (right).

Figure 5b: Checking thread size using a thread gage.Click the thumbnail for the video.

Thread Micrometer

Using a thread micrometer is the easiest way to accurately measure thread pitch diameter for comparison to the thread data listed in the Machinery Handbook or this link. However, thread mics are fairly expensive.

Figure 6a: Example of a thread micrometer (notice the v-shaped anvils) and its use measuring thread pitch diameter.

Figure 6b: (Poorly made) video on how to use a thread micrometer.Click thumbnail for video.

3 Wire Method

The three wire method uses basic geometry and three identically sized wire rods to allow the pitch diameter to be calculated using any standard micrometer measurement. The three wire method is very accurate and the cheapest method of measuring a variety of thread pitch diameters. The downside to this method is that it requires a lot of dexterity to make an accurate measurement without dropping the precision thread wires.

Figure 7a: Checking thread size using 3 wire method. Click the thumbnails for the videos.

Figure 7b: Thread wire formulas for converting between actual measurement and pitch diameter.

Figure 7c: Three wire measurement method explained.Click image for .pdf file.

Miscellaneous Points

For more type of cnc lathe machineinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.