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I just skimmed the thread so apologies in advance if this is duplicate:#1 - Best bet is to ask these questions on the heatinghelp.com forum and get answers from some of hte HVAC pro's that post there.#2 - There should be two aquastats in the system. T indirect tank has an aquastat with a high cutoff and a differential - this will be set to whatever you want your faucet temp to be - say 120F.#2b - The boiler has an aquastat as well - which is the one you where probably told was set to 160F. This aquastat is a high cutoff that controls how hot the boiler gets when delivering heat. In the old days 180F was common, but if the installer recommended 160 and the house heats properly on a design day (typically 0F outside) then leave it alone.#3 The indirect water heater is treated like a "zone" the same as any heat zone of baseboards controlled by a thermostat. The indirect has its own pipe loop feeding it from the boiler with a circulator pump. Keep in mind the the water in the boiler and the indirect DO NOT MIX, the boiler water is just used in a heat exchanger to heat the hot water. So there is NO HEALTH OR HEATING CODE REQUIREMENT to maintain a constant hot temp on the boiler side. The boiler can safely go cold when neither the water heat or radiators are calling for heat.#3 - Since you have an indirect, the boiler should have multi-zone control - both the indirect water heater and the thermostat(s) are zones and any of them can call for the boiler to fire and deliver heat. There is a priority ordering of the zones and the water heater should be setup for 1st priority - this means that if both the water heater and the TStat are calling, the Tstat zone(s) (and the circulator pump(s) for the baseboards) are put on hold and wait until the indirect water heater tank stops calling for heat .So basically how it works is this - there are two control loops to activate the system - the zone control (triggered by indirect or tstat(s) ) and the boiler aquastat (triggered by boiler water temperature):* If the zone control is ON and the Aquastat is ON (< 160F) - burner ON and circulator(s) ON* If the zone control is ON and the Aquastat is OFF (>= 160F) - burner OFF and circulator(s) ON* If the zone control is OFF - burner OFF and circulators OFFTo answer your questions:it is absolutely fine to set the thermostat back to 60F at night. This will not damage anything and the length of time to heat back up to 66 in the morning does not use more fuel than just leaving the house warm all night. That's an urban legend that has been debunked. Of course your installer tries to tell you it doesn't work, because they are probably also the people selling you oilthe boiler should not be setup to just maintain 160F 24 hours a day. That's a holdover from the days when boilers with instant hot water coils where common. Idling the boiler at 160F with an indirect is an unnecessary waste of energy. The water heater stays warm from its insulation jacket and will just call for heat as needed.Again this is something the installer may push back on because having the boiler run constantly lets them sell you more oil. Buyer beware....
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Depending on the school of thought you adhere to, it's a good idea to set the WH thermostat to 140 or so. This requires a tempering valve on the outlet to protect you and your family, but does two things: maximizes the hot water available and is hot enough to kill many nasty bacteria.
It depends on the boiler design and control circuits. Mine monitors the outside temperature, the return temp, and a call for heat, then adjusts the supply temp to meet the circumstances. Depending on how cold it is outside, it might only run to 120-degrees, or on a really cold day might go up to as high as 190. It has a modulating burner that can throttle down to 20% of maximum and can approach the high 90% efficiency. If your boiler can handle the cold starts, in between calls for heat, it might cool off to near ambient. You probably want to keep the temp at least a bit higher than your WH temp setting. Some only have a very small supply of water that it keeps hot, so it really isn't using all that much.
See what some others have to say and I'd consider calling the tech people at the boiler manufacturer's place.
What some people have done here is add an electric WH after the indirect. Since it is supplied with heated water, in the winter it almost never runs, and only runs as the water stored in it cools off. In the summer, shut the boiler off and rely on the electric. Now, you'd have to do a trade-off of the costs and space to install this verses the energy to run the boiler.
Since the SuperStor is quite well insulated, you might consider a timer, and only turn the boiler on for the normal use times. Don't know how well the thing would like the cool-down, heating cycles.
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