Automatic control valves, much like everything else we purchase these days, are not all created equal. Some fall into the high quality bracket with pricing to match, while others hover closer to the lower quality and price sensitive end of the scale. Unfortunately, when evaluating control valve prices, it is not always clear what you are being offered and what standards the valve actually meets. Here are a few questions to consider and ask the supplier to ensure you get years of trouble free operation that lasts longer than it takes the sales person to drive out of your parking lot!
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Q 1 What materials are being used?
Make sure you know what the different components of the valve are made of, as this will certainly affect the life of your valve, specifically:
Body Material &#; is the valve body cast iron or ductile iron? Traditionally valves were cast iron but ductile iron has become the new standard due to its superior physical properties that are much better at weathering the elements.
Body Coating &#; Most of the world insists on fusion bonded coating of a valve, inside and out. Unfortunately here in North America, that is not always requested. This just makes common sense for valves that are constantly wet and sit in locations that are not always dry and pristine. A valve should last for many years, so insisting on a coated valve is a wise choice.
Seat Material &#; bronze is typically the common material for seats but over time, depending on water quality and velocities, bronze wears resulting in the need for replacement. This is time consuming and expensive as seat replacement requires a complete disassembly of the entire valve. Ideally go for stainless steel.
Valve Internals &#; Most valve manufacturers utilize stainless steel for their valve stems. Make sure that you ask what grade of stainless you are getting as not all stainless steel is created equal. 316 SS is always the best choice because it is harder and least likely to corrode.
External Fasteners &#; Over time valves experience condensation or flooding and this can play havoc with coated studs or bolts. There is nothing worse than trying to remove heavily rusted studs out of an old valve to perform maintenance. Request stainless steel fasteners as this will ensure that bolts will be removable at any age.
Q 2 Does the valve supplier fully understand your application?
Too frequently a specification will be requested and a valve is supplied that is simply the wrong valve for the job. It may also be the case that there is just a better solution. Ensure you give your valve supplier all the necessary pressure and flow details including details of the actual application and what you want this valve to do. Having the wrong valve for the wrong application, at best case will result in a significantly shorter life and worst case, a malfunction that can result in destruction of the valve and other parts of your water distribution system.
Q 3 Will this new valve fit into my existing piping layout?
Don&#;t be tempted to just stay with brand X because that is the valve you may be replacing and has the same lay lengths. Most manufactures can be quite innovative on providing solutions to combat varying lay lengths so explore all of you options rather than just settling because you think it may be easier.
Q 4 Do you need specialty tools for maintenance?
Nobody wants to have to carry around a specific tool that only performs one task. Ensure that your valve can be maintained with everything you would carry in regular tool kit. Some valve manufacturers require specialized seat removal tools, or vice jaws installed with copper jaws to protect valve stems. While these are great ideas, they are certainly not things that the average operator has in his toolkit.
Q 5 Will your personnel receive complimentary factory qualified training?
Control valves are not so difficult to understand and once taught, most operations personnel can easily perform maintenance. Ensure that you will not be reliant on the additional cost of having to bring out a factory person every time your valve requires maintenance. Request that a factory-trained representative is on site when the valve is commissioned. This will allow your operators to be schooled in the regular maintenance needs, know what to look for if things go awry and how to start up a valve in a new system or after service. Simple tricks like removing air out of the pilot system are valuable lessons to see in practice.
Q 6 Does your valve have a solid warranty?
These days having a product with the long term back up of the factory is important. Three years should be the standard to ensure there are no manufacturing faults.
Q 7 Can I make changes to the valve if required
Having a valve &#;expansion ready&#; for the future can save you money and make your decisions a whole lot easier. For example, can you add a limit switch or a position indicator easily? Or, if you need to move the pilot system to the other side of the valve, can you do it, or is it not possible because the valve body does not have the required connections? Things always change and a flexible valve gives you more options to keep your now perfect valve, perfect down the road.
Q 8 Does your valve meet industry standards?
There are third party accreditations that ensure your valve was built to the correct specifications. For example; NSF 61, WRAS, UL/FM, AWWA, ISO et.al. They are important because they ensure that the valve has been built to a given standard so the user can be assured they meet approval for such things as low lead content, bacterial growth tests, functional tests etc.
Q 9 Do you have local and factory support?
Make sure there is someone in the area that is factory trained and available to come out and assist when you have questions or problems. This sounds like a given but it&#;s best to ensure the local agent will in fact be there for you when you need him. When a valve fails, timing is usually of the essence so you should know whom to call prior to such an event.
Q 10 Is the valve solution offered able to handle future needs?
In the world of &#;low bid wins&#;, a supplier may be tempted to squeeze as small a valve as possible into the application in order to reduce price. Make sure that the offered solution will supply your needs for the foreseeable future without the burden and additional cost of having to change a valve in a couple of years.
Not a plumbing expert? Not to worry. We&#;re here to answer all your bathroom-related plumbing questions. Here are some frequently asked questions, and the answers you&#;re looking for.
Is The Faucet Really $1,000?!
Yes. Here&#;s a little tip for all things plumbing: You can spend whatever you want. You can buy cheap faucets and fixtures, or you can spend a small fortune. But, as always, high-quality products cost more.
Spending $150 or more is reasonable for a bathroom faucet. More than $250 is a reasonable price for tub and shower fittings, including the valve inside the wall, the handle, the tub spout, and the showerhead.
Do Low-Flush Toilets Work?
Now they do! Thanks to modern innovation, toilet manufacturers take a lot of care in designing and manufacturing their toilets to make sure that water and waste exit quickly and completely.
Engineers have created the Maximum Performance (MaP) test, testing hundreds of toilets each year. A toilet with a score of 600 or better will perform adequately. The top toilets score 1,000, which means they can flush 1,000 grams.
If you need to flush a kilo of anything, they&#;ll do the job. They&#;re powerful machines.
What Are Some Toilet Options? Which Are The Best?
Toilet heights matter. Some are higher, so you&#;ll sit about 3 inches higher than a regular toilet. That makes it easier for some folks to get off and on.
Toilets have either round bowls or elongated bowls. Elongated toilet bowls and the seats that fit on them are often more comfortable. The most common type of toilet is a two-piece with a separate tank and bowl.
Goto Yaxing Valve to know more.
One-piece toilets are sleeker and easier to keep clean but they&#;re more expensive.
Flush mechanisms vary. Gravity is the traditional method, while vacuum-assist or pressure-assist uses changes in air pressure inside the tank to provide a strong flush.
The measurement for the location of the drain line in the floor is called a rough-in dimension; it&#;s either 10-inches or 12-inches. You have to buy a toilet that matches the rough-in dimensions.
Which are the best? That&#;s up to you! Your bathroom experience comes down to what you prefer from your toilet height, bowl size, flush mechanism, and so on.
And no one can tell you more about what&#;s best for you than our very own plumbers. If you need advice, we&#;re always here to help.
Why Aren&#;t Bidets Popular?
Americans haven&#;t yet jumped on the bidet toilet bandwagon. You can buy a bidet seat that attaches to your toilet for anywhere from $300 to $1,000, if that&#;s what you prefer.
You&#;ll need an electrical connection for the seat to operate the pump and heat the water in a small tank.
People who have converted to using bidets love them.
Do I Want A Whirlpool Bath?
That&#;s up to your preference, but probably not. We know you live a busy life. Think about how often in your busy schedule you have time for a long bath. Most people use them for a week and then usage tails off.
They also require a lot of hot water to fill, so they&#;re not exactly environmentally friendly. If you have a 75-gallon whirlpool tub and a 40-gallon water heater, you can see the problem.
But, if you&#;re the type that loves a nice at-home spa experience when you take a bath, this is a great option for you!
What Kind Of Bathtubs Are There?
We could talk bathtubs all day. They generally fall into the categories of cast iron, porcelain on steel, or some kind of polymer.
Cast iron bathtubs are a great option, but (heads up!) it weighs a ton. Trying to wrestle one into your bathroom could be a problem.
Porcelain on steel bathtubs are great options too, as long as the tub is properly reinforced on the bottom. This ensures that you don&#;t get an &#;oil-canning&#; sound when you&#;re in it.
Polymers, such as fiberglass, are a great, low-cost option. Some polymers, such as fiberglass, however, may not hold up over time. Acrylic tubs are better, but cost more. As we said, quality costs more.
Outside of the big three, bathtubs can be made of stone, copper, or artificial composites. If you want to spend a lot of money, teak or cultured marble is the way to go.
Where Does All The Water Go?
All the water draining from the sink, toilet, and bathtub drains out of a common drain. (Hint: No, the toilet does not drain separately.)
Drain lines are typically 4-inch cast iron or PVC. Drains are vented through a 3-inch pipe through your roof.
This connection to outside air prevents the glug-glug sound you hear when pouring water from a bottle. Venting also helps drain water and waste faster.
Are Bathroom Walls Waterproof?
Well, we sure hope so! They should be. Showers can get messy sometimes, right? Conventional drywall in a wet environment like a bathroom is a bad idea.
Bathroom walls are usually constructed with cement backer board, which is a ¼-inch or ½-inch thick sheet of cement and reinforcing fibers in a 3-foot by 5-foot sheet.
The floor and walls are then finished with tile or other materials on top of the backer board, making sure they&#;re water-proofed all the way.
What Else Is New In Bathroom Plumbing?
Bathroom plumbing has new changes in hot water recirculation systems and occupancy sensors.
When you walk into a bathroom, you probably want to turn on the light, turn on the exhaust fan, and you&#;ll need hot water. That&#;s a lot going on at once.
There are wireless occupancy sensors and on-demand hot water recirculation systems available that will pump hot water to the bathroom, turn on the lights, and turn on the exhaust fan. That&#;s the ultimate in convenience.
Want more information on Water Valves And Fittings? Feel free to contact us.