Induction forger - Blacksmithing

23 Sep.,2024

 

Induction forger - Blacksmithing

FWIW, based on the little bit that I&#;ve played with the induction forge, I&#;m not sure knife making is its best use case.

For more information, please visit TY-induction.

Generally, you&#;ll want to heat the entire length of the knife&#;s blade, which would require constantly moving the blade forward and backward through the small coil. It&#;ll be difficult to get an even, hot heat along the length of the blade, and differential heat is an invitation to introduce stress into the metal.

You might be able to do the initial annealing in a gas or coal forge, work the annealed metal in the induction forge to shape it, then go back to a gas or coal forge to heat for quenching/hardening.

Also, FWIW, railroad spikes don&#;t have enough carbon in them to harden well enough to make a knife. You can make a KSO (knife shaped object) but it won&#;t hold an edge.

Since files are high carbon, they can make nice knives. You can incorporate the file texture into the finished knife if you are careful in the forging.

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The Newst shop toy! - The Knife Network Forums

The Newst shop toy!



The New Induction Forge.....

Setup on the cart, and with the required TIG cooler on the bottom.


The machine heats via magnetic induction, must constantly have coolant (distilled water) running through the machine/coils, and has a and on/off foot switch.

I order coils from a gentleman in Canada... and found you can touch one coil....but if you cross two.. it arcs, and if it repeats in the same spot.... will make a hole in the coil and spray water everywhere. To that end, I made a slurry of F kiln cement, and dipped each coil in as a test... and found it to have no impact on how the coil heats, yet it prevent metal to metal contact, there by eliminating any arcing!

Why? Its simply crazy how quickly this thing heats! A 1" wide X 1/4" thick piece of goes from dead cold, to literally burning (sparkling) in about 70 seconds! And after the steel has been heated once, that time is literally cut in half. To forging heat, it's typically 30-45 second, and the reheat takes again, half that time. Here are the first three blades I forged completely with the induction forge.....


Following are some random pics of coils and a rack that I made for/placed on the machine.....











If anybody has questions, just let me know. I'm still very new to the machine....so am just learning, but it's a fun ride!

I've secretly thought about this for a long time, and recently I was in a place where I could afford it... so after using a friend's..... took the plunge.The New Induction Forge.....Setup on the cart, and with the required TIG cooler on the bottom.The machine heats via magnetic induction, must constantly have coolant (distilled water) running through the machine/coils, and has a and on/off foot switch.I order coils from a gentleman in Canada... and found you can touch one coil....but if you cross two.. it arcs, and if it repeats in the same spot.... will make a hole in the coil and spray water everywhere. To that end, I made a slurry of F kiln cement, and dipped each coil in as a test... and found it to have no impact on how the coil heats, yet it prevent metal to metal contact, there by eliminating any arcing!Why? Its simply crazy how quickly this thing heats! A 1" wide X 1/4" thick piece of goes from dead cold, to literally burning (sparkling) in about 70 seconds! And after the steel has been heated once, that time is literally cut in half. To forging heat, it's typically 30-45 second, and the reheat takes again, half that time. Here are the first three blades I forged completely with the induction forge.....Following are some random pics of coils and a rack that I made for/placed on the machine.....If anybody has questions, just let me know. I'm still very new to the machine....so am just learning, but it's a fun ride!



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